Rarotonga is the vibrant centre of the Cook Islands and is where government resides. Circular, and only 32 km in circumference, it is dominated by high mountain peaks from which lush rain forests provide a dramatic backdrop to a palm-fringed shore.

The island is almost completely encircled by a reef, however there is no navigable lagoon, or free anchoring here.  Avatiu Harbour underwent a huge harbour realignment and dredging project to straighten the east quay and dredge the basin to 10m. This project was completed at the end of 2012 and the harbour has now re-opened to visIting yachts.

The end result is a better arrangement for yachts, however locals warn (and I can confirm!) that the harbour is now even more exposed and open to the north winds and seas brought on by frontal passages, (luckily most of the weather comes from the ESE).     (Source:  noonsite.com)

 

TAHITI  –  RAROTONGA   (arrived Aug/02/2016)

Total trip time;  76 hours

Total trip distance;  622 nm

Total fuel used:  498 gals.  /  1.24 nm/gal

 

 

“Motor Vessel INFINITY, INFINITY, INFINITY,,,,,HARBOR MASTER”

               Harbour Master, this is INFINITY on VHF 12 – go ahead.

“Harbor Master here Captain,,,, – Richard wants to say ‘Hello’

               “Hey Richard!  —  How you doing Dude?!”

Of course, Richard, is none other than Nordhavn Dreamer & esteemed Global Entrepreneur, RICHARD BARTON.

Richard has been a casual acquaintance of INFINITY, via the Nordhavn Dreamers website, and we have emailed each other from time to time.  Richard understood we were on our way to Rarotonga, reached-out and extended a warm welcome. 

He has shown us around the Island, and looked after our importation of our fuel pump.  And his wife Willy invited us over to dinner at their beautiful house on the west side of the Island.  We’ve also met & hung out with their daughter Trish for a few days.  What a great family!  It’s wonderful people like this who make our cruising so worthwhile.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This morning, (Aug/09/2016) we installed the new fuel pump for our 20 KW Generator.  She’s a go!!  However, minor upset occurred trying to remove the stop solenoid.  As we unscrewed the solenoid, it came apart in our hands  :  (    Perhaps it can be rebuilt?  For now, I plugged it off and have to stop the Genny by using the manual ‘stop’  on the machine itself.  No biggy, apart from the fact that the “auto-shut-down” feature will no longer operate.  We’ll have to keep a closer and more frequent eye on the oil pressure and engine temperature.  UPDATE:  (18/AUG/2016)  The fuel-stop solenoid has been repaired, installed, and is working like a champ!)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have always been interested in the South Pacific Islands and the Polynesian / Melanesian / Micronesian cultures in general.  I think many of us have been at one time or another.  My own personal interest started in high-school geography class and the wonder blossomed through-out my twenties, and thirties.  I travelled internationally for a living, and my interest grew stronger.

But it wasn’t until Jay and I bought our Nordhavn, and we crossed the Pacific Ocean to Hawaii, that my interest in this diverse culture began to be addressed.  We were welcomed into Hawaii with open arms and could actually feel the ALOHA spirit radiate through the Hawaiian people.  We loved the Bishop Museum and the local Luau’s, and basically any other opportunity which immersed us further into their culture.

But we had a whole world to explore and we were not getting any younger, so onwards we pushed – further south and further west – towards French Polynesia.  All through the Society Islands, their own unique culture was immediately evident – from the most open & accepted personal sexuality, to the most amazing display of Tattoo’s.  Almost everyone, it seemed, had a Tattoo prominent on their body.  This was a revelation to me.  I have always respected well intentioned Tattoo’s, especially one’s which told a story.  I even considered getting some sort of tribal Tattoo myself years ago, but simply could not justify it.

Once we reached Rarotonga, and I saw with my own eyes, that a major percentage off the population (young & old alike) were adorned with ink.  I stood in awe how every persons’ Tattoo was different from each others.

Jay & I were asked if we would mind being interviewed for the Cook Island News, and of course we said ’sure’.  It was during the interview, that I noticed Soloman’s Tattoo.  I remarked how striking it was, and he asked us if we wanted to hear of his Tattoo’s story.  I was enthralled to hear how each symbol represented a certain time or path in his life,,, it was truly unique to him.  At that moment, I knew that I was finally going to live-out a life-long dream of getting a Tattoo, one which told my own story.  Two days later, my personal canvas was done at Polynesian Tattoo, in Rarotonga.  I could not be happier with the results.  I will forever be reminded of the wonderful experience we’ve had in Polynesia and fulfilled another dream.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Infinite dreams,,, endless possibilities,,, without boundaries.  ∞

 

 

My Tattoo is a traditional Polynesian interpretation of my own personal journey: the union of two people, traveling together to foreign lands by sea, guided by the sea-birds and the warrior spirit. Our family is close-by in our hearts.  We are all kept healthy from the fruits of the land, the sun, and positive energy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

• If I had to compare an Island the most like Rarotonga, MOOREA stands out as being the closest.  Lush green lands fringed with palm trees, surround high Jurrasic-like mountains.  The pride the Rarotongans the have in their Island is evident everywhere you turn, substantiated with well kept lots and manicured grasslands.

 

 

 

 

• A unique aspect of Rarotonga culture is the placement of loved-ones who have passed-on.  The tall gravestones, shrines & Slabs are placed in the front yard of many homes.  We’ve been told that they are positioned in this way so the family can be close; as they sit on the shrines and commune with those passed on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

• We had several occasions to take our scooters around the Island.  We visited some Markets, the many beaches, and of-course the fine local hang-outs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As always on our travels, we’ve been  meeting lots of interesting cruisers.  One such couple was Riley and Elayna on s/v La Vagabonde.  They have a website and facebook page directing you to their set of You-Tube videos.  These guys started sailing completely new, and are now crossing oceans.  Talking to them was rewarding and satisfied my sailing fix for another few weeks !     ;  )

 

 

 

Rarotonga has been the best Polynesian Island for me yet,,, But it’s all about the boat for me, and Rarotonga is unfortunately limited in the services and moorage it presently can offer passing cruisers.  The Port Authorities did the best for us, and we certainly appreciated the efforts they went to to accommodate us.  We would love to see a bonafide marina opened up to the cruising public which would surely augment the burgeoning tourist industry on the Island.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This morning (August 19th) we arrived Aitutaki after an overnight passage.  The forecast was somewhat favorable, but the reality was different.  Of course it was much worse, 20 knots of wind on-the-nose with an posing current made an uncomfortable ride.  But we got here safe and sound and we’re currently sitting here nicely at anchor (1030) – there is no way we can enter Aitutaki lagoon, as we draw too much,,, small boats only.  Our anchored position is about 750 meters North of the Arutanga Passage (which is the small-boat access into Aitutaki), and just 100 meters off the coral reef.  With 60 meters of chain out (in 15 meters of water), this only gives us a 40-meter buffer between us and the rocks.  Although we’ve encountered similar anchoring scenarios throughout the south pacific atolls, and we are confident in INFINITY’s ground tackle, this never really feels comfortable.  The ‘edge’ is there.

But what to do?  Be totally safe and blow off this destination,,, No, gotta do it, but I need to be constantly vigilant, and make peace with the edge.

 

 

Rarotonga – Aitutaki

time –  20 hours

miles –   146 nm

ave speed –  7.3 kts

Fuel –  128 gals

mpg  –  1.14 nmpg

 

 

We called Aitutaki Port Control on VHF 16, and informed them of our arrival.  They knew we were here, and I confirmed our anchor position.  We spoke to a local contact (Teina Bishop) and we’ll try to hook up with him tomorrow when we go ashore.  This afternoon, Julie and I are just lounging onboard INFINITY, reading, eating, relaxing, and watching how INFINITY handles the local weather.  Both Flopper Stoppers are deployed.

The next morning we dinghied into the Port, and I noted the 4’ depth in a few parts of the channel.  Looks as though it was a good call on anchoring outside the reef!  Trina Bishop is a dear friend & business colleague of Richard Barton’s, in Rarotonga.  Teina owns a few businesses on Aitutaki, and was a member of local Parliament for over 30 years.  He picked us up at the harbour and gave us a tour around the Island.

Aitutaki has been involved in a number of commercial activities, but the only sustainable one has turned out to be tourism.  The Island is a shining example of keeping local culture infused with an up-to-date lifestyle, and another great tribute to the Cook Islands.  Aitutaki is outstandingly beautiful and was a worthy stopover for us.  We probably would have never seen this Island if it wasn’t for INFINITY.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

During our stay in all of our destinations, we try to remain flexible and go with what Mother Nature has in store for us.  When I looked at the upcoming forecast, it showed days of rain & strong winds ahead.  Considering our vulnerable anchoring position, we decided to call it a day.  I got on the VHF radio, and canceled our Island Boat Tour we had planned for the next day with Teina, and made preparations to get out of there comfortably, while we could.

Well,,, during the recovery of our anchor, our hydraulic windless failed (perhaps shear pins?) and we had to recover it using plan B, (using the davit,,pulling up 9 inches at a time).  This operation took a few hours but we got there in the end.  However, now we were in a dilemma,,,our planned destination from Aitutaki was going to be Tonga, but we were unsure of the support we could get there.  A Trawlers anchoring capability is a major system which must be 100% fully operational and we needed to get the unit sorted soonest.  Next destination then??  Fiji!  –  1400 miles away!

 

 

tatoo again, cause it’s cool : )

 

 

 

We had just purchased some last-minute items ashore, and said good-by to Cindy (our agent) in Tahiti.  As we were making our way back to INFINITY, at Taina Anchorage, we both noticed the weather had increased significantly.  By the time we had hoisted the dinghy onboard, it was time to get out of the anchorage,,,Pronto.  The flopper-stoppers were still deployed but I didn’t have the luxury of time to stow them;  the big Catamaran behind us was getting closer by the minute as their moorings were sttetching out with the blow.

Julie asked me when she should come up on the anchor?

“Now” I said, “right now”

I flashed up the main & wing engine’s, and started the hydraulics.  As Jay was hoisting the anchor, I lifted the flopper-stoppers just clear of the water, leaving the poles still deployed.  We’d be OK for a bit like that.  The last look I had at the wind instruments, we were showing 30 Kts, gusting higher.

We managed through the anchorage, and meandered around the Island reef.  With Julie at the Wing-Station-Helm, and I stowing the flopper-stoppers, diving equipment and the rest of the cruising ensemble.  By the time we were leaving the Tahiti Port entrance I was beginning to think that the journey ahead may turn out to be a pleasant one.

About 2 hours later, I went down below to use the head;  and that’s when I noticed 2 ports had been left open,,,

(I’m not even going to go into the circus which followed, but just imagine an 8” hole in the side of your ship which goes underwater periodically). Yep, Cruising in Paradise is punctuated with punishment from time-to-time.  It seems we are unintentional disciples of universal balance, the Ying-&-Yang at play once more.     Roll-on Rangiroa!!

 

 

 

 

TAHITI  –  RANGIROA (Northern Tuamotus Island)

Total trip time;  27 hours

Total trip distance;  208 nm

Total fuel used:  158 gals.  /  1.31 nm/gal

 

 

 

 

 

Rangiroa is 45 miles long and 15 miles wide, and is the largest Tuamotu, and the second largest atoll in the world.  There are two passes into Rangiroa (Avatoru pass and Tiputa pass) but the anchorage that yachts favor is near the Tiputa pass and the KIA ORA Hotel.

Rangiroa means  Vast Sky in Tuamotuan, and houses about 2500 people on almost 80 km2.   The chief town is Avatoru, located in the northwestern part of the atoll.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ARANUI V  –  new ship in French Polynesia.    Passenger / Freighter

 

Aranui 5 is a new custom-built, dual-purpose passenger/freighter that sails from Tahiti to the Marquesas, Tuamotu and Society Islands in French Polynesia on a 14 day all-inclusive cruise. Designed to offer all of the comforts of a cruise liner, while operating as a supply ship, Aranui 5 is classified as a small vessel, accommodating approximately 254 passengers and 103 cabins.

 

 

TE MAO  TAPAS BAR

The TA MAEO Tapas Bar Bar is owned and operated by Patrick & Sophie.  I phoned patrick on our Satellite phone, and he came and picked us up from the Hotel dock.  Thanks Patrick!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Island life:  So, this morning (July 12th), we dived the Tiputa Pass in Rangiroa – which was a ‘drift’ dive.  We saw schools of Barracuda, 100’s Black-tip sharks and a Hammerhead Bull shark.  The Hammerhead was BIG, looked well-fed, and was totally freakin’ awesome.  Later, we took our bikes ashore to explore.  We ended up in a small Tavern, met an Australian couple (Aurelio & Gary), and shared a few beers & pizza.  Fun afternoon!

 

 

One day, a few months ago,,, Julie started picking up random coconuts and shaking them, to check for milk.  Every now & then, we get Lucky!  If we have room in the Sub Zero, we’ll keep them for happy -hour.  It takes a few days for them to completely cool, but once they reach refrigerator temperature, the thick coconut husk keeps them perfectly chilled at 38º for hours.  I drill a half-inch hole into them and Jay pours in the rum.  It’s fun and decadent at the same time.     :  )

 

 

 

 

 

 

This morning we woke up to a 50’ Beneteau “GOA” anchoring in front of Infinity this morning.  Last week, (while in Tahiti Taina anchorage) we had our hook down in front of them.  Made me smile seeing a familiar boat sharing a Far-away anchorage together.

The only background noise in this anchorage was small boat craft and children’s laughter (jumping off the pier)

 

 

 

 

THE BLUE LAGOON

Accessible only by boat, the Blue Lagoon resembles an immense natural swimming pool filled with marine life.   We spent a memorable afternoon of snorkeling and relaxing on the pristine beach.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A quick side story to the Blue Lagoon,,, towards the end of the afternoon, the winds started picking up, and virtually changed the landscape and mood in minutes.  We knew the forecast wasn’t pretty, but having SO wanted to see the Blue Lagoon, we decided some time there was better than no time there.  However, right now it was becoming increasingly obvious our time was rapidly running out.

We jumped into the dinghy and very carefully threaded our way out of the shoal waters, 60HP engine partially lifted to avoid another EPO (Equipment Purchase Opportunity).  By the time we got back to INFINITY, the winds were over 30 knots and the seas were building rapidly.  I have never seen the bow raise & fall so much in the last 4 years of our ownership.  What-to-do?  I briefly considered towing it behind but in these conditions I could foresee it turtling, and that would have been an insurance job,,,in the Tuamotus???  I had to go back to Plan A.

Our vessel’s davit is more-or-less centrally positioned, so we decide to go for it – lift the dinghy back to deck.  Julie clambered back onboard and positioned the davit to the recovery position, as I motored up to the hook.  The hook was rising and falling at least 3 feet, and I quickly realised this was going to be a one-time event.  I was inwardly stressing about a shock-load, so the timing had to be ‘just-right’.  Fortunately, it all worked out fine, but I have discovered the limits to our equipment.  You live & learn.  Recovering the anchor was also a memorable event.  The wind was howling over our boat at such speed that it was shrieking, making the most horrible noise.  I had no choice but to simply tune it out.  I couldn’t hear Julie on the bow and had to follow hand signals.  The thrusters were way overpowered in this situation, and were useless.  Luckily, I had been practising using the main engine and rudder for close quarter positioning over the last few weeks, and this is what got us out of there.  There was the very real danger of being pushed into the surrounding coral, as the anchor left bottom.  That time I looked back at the waterline and saw Black Smoke out of the exhaust, rudder hard-to-Stbd, wind howling,,, smiling to myself & thinking  – I love this stuff and wouldn’t want to be anywhere else!

 

 

 

 

Our diving in the Tiputa Pass was awesome and just wet our appetite for more.  We heard Fakarava is the place to go for diving, so we planned our exit from Rangiroa.

 

 

 

 

Although we knew the weather for the transit to Fakarava would be ‘on-the-nose’, it actually proved to be one of the 4 worst (rough) passages we’ve ever had in INFINITY.  At one point, I posed the question to Jay, if we should bug-out of there and head back to Tahiti direct.  Fortunately we both decided to dig deep, and soldier on.  After all, his is what INFINITY was made to do.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our move to Fakarava was all about the Diving.  There are North and South passes to dive and they both have great diving, although the sharks at the South Pass was one of the best dives of my life!

This was something that both of us really wanted to do, but I must admit to being a little apprehensive (sometimes I know too much!)  Turns out, coming here was one of the best cruising decisions we’ve made so far.

 

 

 

 

Fakarava is the second biggest atoll of the Tuamotus archipelago and is considered the Mecca of scuba diving in French Polynesia.  The shape of Fakarava Atoll is roughly rectangular and its length is 60 kilometres (37 miles) and its width 21 kilometres (13 miles).  This atoll was classified as a biosphere reserve by UNESCO.  The diving at both passes is excellent.

Pass Garuae (north) is very wide and easy and is near the town of Rotaova, which has 855 inhabitants;

Pass Tumakohua (25nm further south) is a little more tricky to negotiate but well marked.

 

 

 

La Paillote   Cafe · Rotoava – Fakarava North

We stopped off at this quaint cafe for some cold beer and wonderful French Panini’s for a few days running.  Their little pier was frequently busy with customers and fishermen.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The walk back to our boat always brought a smile to my face.  I loved this Island.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another cool business we discovered in Fakarava North, was::  FAKARAVA YACHT SERVICES

Stephanie and Aldric have set up their Yacht Services business out of their home.  You are free to come & go during business hours, to lounge on their porch and surf the net.  They monitor  VHF 77.

We thought it was a cool idea, and a great resource for us; – our “go-to” couple for info on Fakarava.  They also offer laundry  /  internet access  /  airport pick-up  /  bike rental  /  and all services & requests.

 

 

FAKARAVA SOUTH

 

 

 

 

And now, what we came here for – Diving with the sharks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All short videos can be viewed on INFINITY”s FaceBook page

 

 

What a wonderful journey back to Tahiti this was turning out to be.  The wind is a cooling 9.5 knots at our stern, assisting us along towards Tahiti.  The sky is clear and the stars are shining brilliantly.  It would be perfect, if not for a leaking Generator fuel pump which my mind is continually chewing over as we transit.  Always something negative going-on in the background, while you are immersed in blissful paradise.   I chuckle to myself at times contemplating the Grand-Scheme of things and how there’s an obvious sense-of-humor at play.  The Ying-&-Yang – God continues to keep me on my toes.

We’re on our way back to TAHITI, to close out our time in the Society Islands.  We need to:

1. Officially check-out of French Polynesia
2. Order a 20KW fuel pump from Hatton Marine, in Seattle.
3. Top-up on diesel  &  Head to Rarotonga!

 

Under Construction…  /  Visit #2 immanent

 

 

Visit #1

 

The transit over to Moorea is perhaps, 20 miles away.  It didn’t take long before we could see her lush mountains contrasted against the azure blue sea.  It was a perfect day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On this particular day, the Pilot House is climate controlled, Adele is heard playing in the background, over the gentle thrum of our engine, and all systems are ‘go’.  As we slde into Cook’s Bay, each one of us is secretly looking for King Kong.  It’s a surreal experience.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our day quickly ran into dusk,,, we opened a bottle of wine, played some cards, enjoyed some music, and contented ourselves with an early night.

 

Morning brought some clouds and a change of pace.  We unshipped our fast dinghy and made our way towards the Moorea Yacht Club.  We quickly got the lay-of-the-land from the YC staff, and continued our exploration by foot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now back at INFINITY, and all safe & sound.  Our night unfolded with some Hinano’s & popcorn as we watched a movie on the upper aft-deck.  It occurred to me how fortunate we were to be here, as a family, enjoying this prehistoric vista, on May 23rd, 2016.

 

 

Next day, some water activities.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On May 15th, 2016, we picked up anchor from Bora Bora Yacht Club at 12-noon, and made our way over to Tahiti.  The journey was rather unpleasant, as we had headwinds-&-head-seas throughout the entire journey.  Mercifully, the transit was a short one.

 

BORA BORA  –  TAHITI

Total trip time:  22 hours     

Total trip distance:  152 nm

Total fuel used:  128 gals  /  1.18 nm/gal

 

 

It’s always great to be heading to a new destination, but the feeling of anticipation was almost palpable with Chloë & Kal.  No doubt they appreciated Kiribati and Bora Bora, but Kal in particular was looking forward to the great ‘Metropolis’ of TAHITI.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Marina Taina was home to some of the most beautiful and current boats in the world.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Though we were enjoying our time at Marina Taina, our time with Chloë & Kal was coming to an end.     :  (

Over breakfast, we etched-out our plan for the remaining week.

1.  Take INFINITY to Papeete Marina in the City so the kids could enjoy the weekend nightlife
2.  Then head to Moorea for a few days,,,
3.  Head back to Tahiti, and rent a car for a couple of days to fully explore the Island.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our son Kal loved the time in city of Papeete, remarking that this was his best time in the two months onboard INFINITY.  (I wasn’t quite sure how to interpret that, but we’re happy he found his bliss  ; )

After the weekend in Papeete, we departed Tahiti, and transited over to Moorea.    (Moorea was great & turned out to be better than expected).

With Moorea under our belts, we headed back to Tahiti to rent a car, and do some exploring!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intense, but magnificent weather as we get back to the boat at Marina Taina.  Moorea in the distance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With the kids now gone, it’s back to just Julie and I onboard INFINITY, once again.  One of the ‘take-aways’ from cruising with your Partner is that you are forced into growing as a couple.  We’ve been spending 24/7 together, living in close quarters, and often in strenuous physical and/or emotional conditions.  I’m happy to say we are thriving  :  )     We’ve learned to rely on each other more now (than perhaps we otherwise would), and this continues to build respect, love  & trust.  With 28 years of marriage behind us, I feel new wonderful horizon’s are in our future.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

About a week later, we got word through our agent that some poor weather was due to hit Marina Taina.  I checked it out and it looked ugly.  In fact, I had one of those gut premonitions that very morning.  Coincidence????  God is teaching me well, and Julie and I have agreed to never ignore a gut feeling.  30 minutes later we let the lines slip, & we were outta there.  Our exit was intense,,, seas were building quickly and I was seeing gusts of 40 kts, with the wind howling and cold rain sheeting down on both of us as we brought up the anchor. (which was amidst the multitude of bow lines zig-zagging from the rows of med-moored yachts).  We kept calm, but I mentioned to Jay how it does not really get any more hairy than that.  Over to the more protected Papeete marina we go!

 

 

 

 

With no real rush on our hands, Julie and I decided to stay put at Papeete Marina, and enjoy the convenience of the city.  Several times during our stay, we’d walk to the Bora-Bora Lounge, to enjoy a cold beer.  And other days we’d take our scooters around the Island.  It was great to have the freedom to do that, and we seem to appreciate the scooters more-&-more as time goes on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We meet up with other cruisers and Nordhavn owners from time-to-time.  Imagine our pleasure when we pulled into Papeete Marina and saw Dick & Gail Branes from N57 – ICE DANCER II.  The last time we saw each other was in Ko Olina, Hawaii.

 

 

 

 

 

 

REPAIRS;

For those of you who may frequent our blog, you’ve come to see our life at Sea is regularly interspersed with periods of repairing equipment.  ALL boats are the same, no matter if Power or Sail, mono / catamaran / or trimaran, Fiberglass, Aluminum, or Steel.  They all have issues from time to time, and this is just a fact of ocean-crossing boat ownership.

So which components needed attention this month?  Fortunately, only three.  (so far)

 Iridium Sat Phone;  this turned out to be just an Admin error from our Airtime Provider.  We had renewed our contract for another year, but the airtime credit had not been applied to our account.  Once we got to Tahiti, I was able to contact them by email, and once alerted to the issue, they quickly resolved it, and we are back in business.  All tested, all working great.

Sub Zero Refrigerator;  We had noticed our Fridge temperature rising from time to time and the Nordhavn Owners Group alerted me to the fact that the Condenser Fans have a limited lifespan.  We checked the fan, and sure enough it was occasionally stopping.  We accepted the fact we would need new ones, and ordered them through Hawaii.  Then the Fridge died all together.  Through several U-Tube videos, we learned that the failure of the condenser fan could put an additional load on the Start Relay, so we ordered that from Vancouver.  The parts should be here soon.     UPDATE;  Our refrigerator parts arrived about 10 days later, and we immediately got to it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shore Power Cable;  During a torrential down pour one night, our cable connections had seen enough moisture to short, basically fusing the North-American MARINCO connections together.  Marinco spares are hard to find in Tahiti, so we were left with few options.  We chose to chop the fused connections out of the cable and join them together, thereby eliminating further connections and making one single shore-power cable, out of the two.  To this cable, we installed the 200 amp / 240v connector.  It’s a beast!  – made specifically for the SuperYacht vessels.  We then had a completely separate cable made up with a 32 amp / 220v connection with seems the most prevalent here in the South Pacific marinas.  No Marina? = no problem.  We use the generator.

 

 

 

After a few weeks ‘free-time’, visiting restaurants and local Bars, we entered a maintenance period on INFINITY.  Time for a rub-down and some wax!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now back to the Fun!    5 short videos (from our Facebook page) of a diving trip we took with the owners of N62 – ‘WALKABOUT’,  (John & Veronica – who were tied-up alongside Marina Taina).  It is always a pleasure to meet other Nordhavn owners, and we quickly struck up a friendship.  They invited us to a BBQ onboard their N62, and the following day, we all went diving together.  Great times.     :  )

Our dive site featured 2 wrecks:  a sunken Catalina PBY (aka – ‘Flying Boat’)  & the ‘PAPEETE’ Schooner (built 1891)  /   75′ of water  /  Papeete inner reef.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                Happy Canada Day !

 

 

 

The local diving wet our appetite for something more adventurous.  We had heard of the Tuamotos Islands and the great Diving offered there, but we’d have to backtrack several hundred miles to go there, and was it going to be worth it?  Of course it was!  We pack-up INFINITY ∞  and head for Rangiroa.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our destination to Tahiti was changed to Bora Bora, when we realized just how close we would have to pass the Island, to land at Tahiti.  The decision was unanimous,,, Bora Bora here we come!

During the passage, a few “FIRST’s” were introduced.

1. we navigated past the 10,000 mile mark, earning us the Nordhavn 10,000 mile pennant.
2. our 1st equator crossing, in which we dutifully carried out a transient “Crossing-the-Line” ceremony.
3. our 1st time in Southern Hemisphere with INFINITY

 

The transit to Bora Bora was coincidently more-or-less, the same milage as the Oahu-Kiribati leg, (around 1160 nautical miles each).  The weather for the Bora Bora run was much kinder to us this time, winds 15-20 kts and 2m seas.  However, the transit was not without incident.

4 days out, right in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean, we lost our Stabilizer belt.  The belt (which runs a hydraulic pump off the main engine) parted, and could no longer power the Stabilizers.  Of course the incident occurred in the early hours of darkness.  Chloë woke me up to say the Stabilizers alarmed, and indicated lost pressure.

So the usual Chinese-Fire-Drill ensues.  I jump out of bed and check out the hydraulic reservoir;  that’s OK.  So as I’m scratching my head on what to check next, I see the parted-belt hanging off the main engine.

I’ve done this before, so we commence the drill.

Turn on wing engine, put power to the wing-engine prop, and forge ahead at 3 kts.   Next, turn off the main engine (1000 miles from anywhere).  Then Chloë and I start dismantling the Belt-guard, and loosening the pump.  I had ordered brand new belts in Hawaii, so we were prepared.  The new belt went on easy enough, and we tightened it up in good time.  Now came a moment of prayer (I’ve got God on speed-dial these days), and we flashed up the main engine.  It jumped to Life!!  Thank you God.  We engage the clutch and resumed our normal 7.5 kts.  Once everything looked OK, we secured the wing engine.

The remainder of the transit was rather pleasant & uneventful   —   until we put the anchor down in Viatape, Bora Bora.

We had dropped the anchor manually, and set it.  A while later, we decided to reposition our boat, so we flashed up the hydraulic system only to find nothing operational.  Uh oh…

I pulled out our Iridium SAT phone, only to find that not making calls to the USA  (I’ll investigate that once we get to Tahiti).  The only external comms we had was the Iridium-Go text system.  So I text ABT (American Bow Thruster) on my iPad, and say “help!”  Perhaps two or three minutes later, I get text responses from both David Wright, and Darryl (from world wide Tech-Support) asking what’s up?

I continued answering texts, one-by-one, going through our system, and twenty minutes later we find the problem!!

It’s almost embarrassing for me to admit I’d missed the actual fault, but the point right here is the ABT TRAC support team are truly with you anywhere in the world.  Any trawler I own will have ABT stabilizers,,, the support is that good.  BRAVO.

Our fault?  The electric COIL had vibrated off the wing-engine clutch.  No control signals were getting to any hydraulic equipment.  It was a simple matter to slide the coil back onto it’s rod, and we were back in business.  This time, I used blue loctite to secure the single nut.  You live and you learn.  Ain’t boating great?!

 

 

The sunsets experienced enroute to Bora Bora were the usual ‘phenomenal’.

 

 

 

 

A few days before we left KIribati, we met a couple on a Catalina 42 (Bob & Marge) who mentioned a joint interest   — Palmyra Island—  and gifted us a book about the skullduggery that the Island is infamous for  [“AND-THE-SEA-WILL-TELL”].  Julie read the first few pages aloud,,, and we were hooked!  I took over as orator, and read a chapter aloud to my audience whenever the mood took us.  (perhaps 3-4 Chapters a day).  The story had us rapt, as we were cruising around the very Islands under discussion.  It turned out to be an intimate and fun family occasion.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see from the next series of photos,,, the scenery in Bora Bora was simply sublime!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, once we found our bearings, we started to venture into town.  The main town is Viatape, which we ended up anchoring right in front of.  Perfect for excursions to shore by dinghy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we were painfully aware that Chloë & Kal would be with us, for which could be the last time, (in a long time,) we hit the Island in style and did not shy away from the local Restaurants.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For a different vibe, we picked up anchor and moved to the Bora Bora Yacht Club  (had to do it!)  It turned out to be a great place, and the food was fantastic.

 

 

 

Looks like Paradise right?  Yes it was,,, but our time there also had a few mishaps.  I managed to polish some rocks with our Z-Boat’s prop (good thing we had a spare), and we lost of of our cockpit cushions during a squall outside the Yacht Club.  Julie and I spent a few hours looking for it at daybreak, but no luck.  Both incidents were totally avoidable, so we should have known better.  This yachting lifestyle is about constant learning and improvement, and never fails to teach us new lessons (and old lessons),,,

 

KIRIBATI – BORA BORA

Total trip time:  164 hours     (6 days, 20 hours)

Total trip distance:  1173.7 nm

Total fuel used:  920.4 gals  /  1.27 nm/gal

 

 

On to TAHITI!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On April 12th, 2016, we finally left the Island of OAHU, which had become our home-away-from-home.  I was actually unsure if the time would ever come, so great was our time in the Hawaiian Islands.  We will remember the consistent warm weather, cooling trade winds, glorious sunsets & the wonderful ALOHA Spirit.  Until we meet again, Thank you Hawaii for the last 16 wonderful months.  MAHALO.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pointing INFINITY South into the Pacific waters, we commenced our transit from OAHU to Christmas Island, KIRIBATI.

This trip is a family reunion with Julie, Andy, Chloë & Kal Nemier, all together again, just like the good ol’ times.  After our stay in French Polynesia, Chloë departs for Norway, to start her new life with her boyfriend Henrik.  And Kal starts his University education back in British Columbia.  When will we all meet up again?

As we exited the Barber’s Point channel, we encountered a plethora of shipping,  and a complete failure/shut-down of our primary Nav (Nobeltec) system,,, (we’re perhaps 20 minutes into our trip at this stage)  No drama.  We fired up the secondary Furuno plotter and restarted the Nobeltec again, (after checking all the connections were tight), and had no further issues with it.

The first day out was so rough that it was ‘every man for himself’.   Nourishment-wise, no one felt like eating anything anyway.  The second day we rallied together to re-heat some Thai leftovers.  The third day was better and we managed to bake a Lasagne.  We had our first coffee’s of the trip on Day 3.  That felt good, I loved that.

Day 4, the Nespresso coffee machine was re-installed in it’s rightful place.  For most of the voyage, the weather did not really improve much, with continual heavy head seas & winds.  But our sea sickness medication was working & we soldiered on.  Our last 24 hours, as closed in on Christmas Island, were thankfully peaceful with calm winds and seas.

After a shaky start, I’m now realizing that the boat & crew are actually pretty well sorted.  And it’s funny how it can take a rough transit to substantiate that.  I actually like these longer passages because they enable you to fine tune your vessel.  During the transit, the boat’s operation has primacy in my thoughts.  It allows me to capture what’s important to make the boat go; (what is really paramount, and what’s just fluff).  I have a totally revised TO DO list, now that another 1160 miles has passed under the keel.

As we are approaching Christmas Island, 24 miles out.  I’m sitting in the salon in total air conditioned comfort, my iPad mini beside me showing our present position, and it occurs to me that I have everything I could ever want right here.  My family is upstairs and we are all enjoying this wonderful experience of visiting the South Pacific together.  Next week, we’ll see Bora Bora, Raritea, and Tahiti.  I feel so very fortunate to be able to enjoy this ‘once in a lifetime’ experience as a family.  Who says God is not great?  Right now, I’m sitting in the awe and wonderment of it all.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The day before we headed out, we decided to grab some diesel, basically to stem the generator use.  (During the transit and during much of our time at anchor, the generator was running 24/7 for Air Conditioning).  Well, that refueling event turned out to be a hairy adventure.  No photos, no time for that.  The surge was so great at the commercial dock, that we were ‘live-boating’, and actively repositioning the fenders for much of the time.  Don’t ever want to see a ‘next time’.

We had one other issue during our stay.  The plastic PEX fitting underneath our Hot-Water tank let go.  Chloë heard the mid-ship’s bilge pump running, and alerted me to the noise.  Naturally this took place at O’Dark thirty, as I pumped out the space and spent 20 mins rummaging around the engine room for spare fittings.  Luckily we had one, and we were back to “Fully-Operational” status inside 30 mins.

Our stay in Christmas Island stretched out to 7 days.  We chilled-out a few days, BBQ’ued and swam off the bustle.  The Island tour & picnic took a day.  And of course ‘Island Time’ played a role with our clearance, immigration, banking and diesel delivery.  It’s easy to account for the days clicking-on by.

 

 

OAHU – KIRIBATI

TOTAL TIME FOR JOURNEY:  168 hrs (7 days)

TOTAL MILAGE FOR JOURNEY:  1153.6 nm

TOTAL FUEL FOR JOURNEY:  979.6 gals     /     1.17 nm/gal

 

 

 

 

We crossed the Pacific Ocean to visit the Hawaiian Islands & our friends on the Big Island (Karen & Bob Moles – hi guys!).   The transit to Hawaii would break up an otherwise huge undertaking (voyage to New Zealand), and also provide a last stop for any spares & servicing that this intermediate journey would uncover.  Our initial research suggested that Oahu would offer a great Base and entry point to the Hawaiian Islands.

 

OAHU                      updates 2015/Feb           reunion 2015/May           Jan-&-Em 2015/May

KAUAI

BIG ISLAND           INFINITY / PENDANA Rendezvous 2015/Jul

 

 

We arrived Oahu, Ko Olina Marina on November 17th, 2014.  Thanks again to our crew Ron Okada & Frank Balm (you know you guys were awesome, don’t you?!).  On November 18th, we had guests arriving, flying in from Vancouver.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We spent the first day a-walkin’ & a-talkin’ around the Marina grounds.  Jay and I have come to love Ko Olina.

 

 

 

 

A DAY ON THE BEACH

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For purely medicinal purposes, refreshments were in order.

 

 

 

 

The next day, was my 50th Birthday.  Awesome.  I received many cards, gifts and messages of good will.  Indeed, Jay and I are very lucky to be surrounded by such great people in our lives.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Such great times tend to gravitate around my Birthday.   On November 19th, 2012, we received word from Transport Canada that ‘INFINITY’ had officially been registered to us.  In 2013, we were fortunate to celebrate in La Paz, Mexico (with the Fubar), and now in 2014, we celebrate with family and great friends in Hawaii.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next morning, time to shake the cobwebs off, and take the boat out for a burn along the western shore.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

another day,  we went for a car ride on the eastern side of the Island

 

 

 

 

 

 

Diamond Head  (had to,,,)   Diamond Head is one of those ‘gotta-do’ things in Oahu.   It’s basically an old Volcano crater which was turned into a Miltary Strategic Point.  Because of it’s uniqueness and the spectacular views it offers, it has become a bit of a tourist attraction.   A walk for tourists which is a series of many steep stairs and  has several lookout points across the island & coastline.

 

 

 

 

 

 

and back down to Waikiki

 

 

PEARL HARBOR    We are all familiar with the history of the attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941 by the Japanese, causing the beginning of World war two, but it was an emotional journey to visit the harbor where it all took place and see all the artifacts in the museums there.   It personalized the tragedy and gave us a whole new understanding of the event.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On to our Luau.  We chose the Polynesian Cultural Center for this and we were not disappointed.  The show after the dinner was spectacular,,, really was.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve and Joanne have said their goodbyes, and Lynn & Steve remain for a few days more on the good ship INFINITY.  This is a shot of our last night together,,, good times!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Updates:

Dec 26th, 2014  –  I went back to work (Middle East again), and Julie flew to Vancouver for Christmas with the family.

 

Feb 15th, 2015  –  Harley is back onboard INFINITY!   Click on the link HERE to see how it all transpired.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Feb 28th, 2015  –  INFINITY ∞  Haul-out.   ON THE HARD

Once we recovered from Harley’s import into Honolulu, we got busy on INFINITY ∞   We had 5 days to make it happen, before I had to get back to work.  After 2 1/2 years, it was great to get her out, and give her some attention.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

May 1st, 2015

After a couple of months back at work, Julie and I were reunited once again, (perhaps for the 124th? time).  I go earn the cruising chips and Julie stays onboard and tends to INFINITY’s every need – a job she excels at.  Before our guests arrive, we immerse ourselves in the Hawaii we’ve grown to love.  Here is what was happening locally.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meet Kevin, Ko Olina’s local Puffer fish.  He surfaces every few hours to try his luck.  He’s rarely dissappointed.  He’s often thrown some fresh fish from a local catch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another Charter boat brings home a prize.  This Yellow fin was actually typical,,,(honestly).  Kevin is going to be happy!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Occassionally, Julie and I would venture into Honolulu, visit West Marine and then go shopping,,,  I fell instantly in love with this bad-boy – the 2015 INDIAN ‘SCOUT’

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

White Party at Ko Olina’s sea-side lawn area.   It was around 9pm, and Julie and I had just finished our new Battery Bank installation.  We took Harley for a walk and look what was happening on the grounds!  It was crazy and magical at the same time.  It sure looked like fun & everyone we spoke to was having a great time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Reunion!

This was no ordinary reunion, this one was special as it marked the first time my Dad & his wife Joan, had been onboard INFINITY.  We were fortunate to have my brother-in-law – Jean-Pierre Daspe, also join us.  We spent a week lazing around Oahu, before heading off to KAUAI

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OK, another night at the Golf Club.  It’s local, it’s handy, and the views are easy on the eye.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

JP, getting some water time in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A day out to Manoa Falls

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Well, it’s been a busy month, and you’ll see it’s about to get busier   ;  )

 

Two days after our arrival back to Ko Olina, (from KAUAI), my Dad and Joan departed Oahu, heading back to Canada.  JP followed a few days later.  That left 4 clear days for Julie and I to prepare INFINITY for Jan & Emily’s arrival.

Jan Lacock, and her daughter Emily, are our dear friends from North Vancouver who came out to visit us on May 21st, 2015.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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KAUAI

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We met this wonderful woman, who happened past our boat (paddle-boarding) just after anchoring in Hanelei Bay.  We invited her onboard for coffee and discussed many things local to the Island.  (Horror of horror’s, Kelly – I’ve misplaced your details – I’m so sorry)  In true Island spirit, she lent us her car for the weekend.  Just incredible,,, Island people are so good.

With some wheels, we got touring around the Island to see what we could see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Do you remember the film “The Descendants”?  We recognised many places on the Island where different scenes were shot.  It was kind of cool to associate these places we were going to, with the Clooney movie.  We all liked the movie, and loved KAUAI.

 

 

 

 

A few days later, we had to pick up sticks, and head back to Oahu.  The forecast was poor, and guess what?  Bang-on this time  :  (      Bye-bye- KAUAI,  I shall see you again sometime.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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BIG ISLAND

 

 

KONA

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The day after registration, I ran my first Marathon.  You can read about it here

We spent the next few days relaxing arond Kailua Bay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HILO

 

 

 

 

Flying over Kilauea, we saw live lava flows

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the flight over the island took us over some beautiful pools & waterfalls

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another day, we went hiking around the Volcanoes National Park

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

wandering through the Thurston Lava Tube, kind-of cool.

 

 

Views from the Thomas A Jagger Museum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INFINITY  /  PENDANA   Rendezvous

 

When we learned that N62 Pendana was passing through Hawaii during their Pacific transit, we thought it would be cool to hook-up, and finally meet up with the Ellingford’s.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Two Ocean-crossing Thoroughbreds in Hawaii

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hawaii – the Rainbow State  (you’re not kidding!)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reflecting back, we ended up staying a couple of weeks in Hilo, and we thoroughly enjoyed it.  The anchorage was well protected, and access to the shore (by dinghy) was painless enough.  The next two photos of Infinity were taken by James, from Pendana.

 

 

 

 

Well, time to head back to Oahu.  This guy has to head back,,, to go to work.  Is it really that time already?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our transit back to Ko Olina was blissfully calm, and highly unusual for the Alenuihaha Channel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Transit from San Diego to Hawaii

Good bye Mexico – we’ll miss you!

Quaint, colourful & cool!

Crystal clear azure water, and dolphins!

This is the last stop, the end of the road for the FUBAR 2013 Rally

thanking God for enabling this great experience for us

As the morning progressed, so did the fog. We arrived Mag Bay by Radar

Margarita time onboard INFINITY!

The crew of INFINITY arrive MEXICO!

Entering San Diego Harbor, we came within 500m of the US Military presence. They were everywhere,,, Cool!

We made it!

Jay and I have decided to enter the FUBAR 2013 Rally!

We sold our home to pursue dreams of traversing God’s blue earth by sea